Irrigation problems rarely announce themselves. You notice a brown patch two weeks after the actual failure. Here is how to find them earlier.
The seven usual suspects
Run each zone manually and walk it — five minutes, twice a year.
- Misting heads: pressure too high; add a pressure-regulating head or a regulator
- Dry arcs: clogged nozzle, wrong nozzle, or head knocked out of adjustment
- Sunken heads: soil settled or turf grew over — raise or install on swing joints
- Zone won't shut off: debris in the valve diaphragm or a failed solenoid
- Zone won't start: solenoid, wiring splice or controller output
- Constant wet spot near the valve box: leaking valve or fitting
- Sky-high bill with no visible leak: mainline leak or valve weeping underground
Typical repair costs
Head replacement runs $15–$40 each installed; valve rebuild or replacement $150–$350; mainline leak repair $250–$700 depending on depth and hardscape; a smart controller upgrade $350–$900 installed.
The seasonal habit that saves money
Change your controller program four times a year, not once. San Diego evapotranspiration in July is more than double January's. Most homeowners water a summer schedule year-round and pay for it twice — once on the bill and once in root rot.
Frequently asked
- Why is one zone always weaker?
- Usually too many heads on the zone or a partially closed valve. Head count should match available flow.
- How long do sprinkler systems last?
- Valves 10–15 years, heads 5–10, PVC decades. Controllers are usually upgraded before they fail.
- Are smart controllers worth it?
- Yes — weather-based scheduling typically saves 15–30% and prevents watering during rain.