Drip is the most efficient irrigation available and the easiest to install badly, because failures are invisible until plants die.
The components that must be right
Every drip zone needs these four items at the valve.
- Filter — 150–200 mesh; local water carries enough grit to clog emitters
- Pressure regulator — usually 25–30 PSI; street pressure blows fittings apart
- Backflow protection per code
- Flush points at the end of every run
Emitters vs. inline tubing
Point-source emitters suit specimen shrubs and trees, sized 1–2 GPH each with two emitters per shrub and four to six on trees, spread at the dripline rather than the trunk.
Inline dripline on 12- or 18-inch spacing is better for dense beds and groundcover — it wets the whole root zone evenly and encourages plants to knit together.
Run times and maintenance
Drip is about long, infrequent cycles: typically 30–60 minutes, one to two times a week in summer for established beds, less in winter. Shallow daily watering creates shallow roots and drought-fragile plants.
Twice a year, flush the lines, clean the filter, and walk every zone while it runs to catch chewed tubing and blown emitters. Rodents and shovels cause the majority of drip failures.
Frequently asked
- Should drip be buried?
- Under mulch, yes. Buried in soil only with subsurface-rated dripline and root-inhibiting emitters.
- Can I convert sprinklers to drip?
- Yes — retrofit kits at the head or, better, convert at the valve with proper filtration and regulation.
- How do I know it's working?
- Check soil moisture 6 inches down two hours after a cycle. Dry means underrun; soggy means overrun.